We make a quick jump west across the channel to the small fishing village of San Evaristo. We’ve heard there
are yummy fish tacos waiting for us and if we are lucky the small tienda may have some fresh veggies. We will hide there for a day or two and let some strong South winds pass by before heading more North.
We have a quick 4 mile sail across San Jose channel and end up in a quiet little bay. Small houses line the beach with pangas moored in front of each one. We quickly find the restaurant on the southern end and we head in. It was a nice change to have tacos some one else had prepared. But what made the experience more special is talking with the family that owns the restaurant. They have been feeding cruisers for years and welcomed us with open arms and wide smiles. They also have rooms to rent in the back that all sorts of travelers have rented over the years.
The teenage kids who are out of school right now due to the pandemic are helping run the restaurant in between their home lessons they are trying to finish. They find more fun in talking with us and practicing English then doing their school work. They are kind enough to let us practice our Spanish. We laugh harder than is probably necessary as we have Spanish speakers speaking English and English speakers speaking Spanish. It is loud and boisterous but so much fun. We come back for more every day that we are there.
In between tacos and sleep we walk through the town, over the small hill, to look out over the salt pounds on the North side. As we follow the dirt road down to the salt flats we count 4 or 5 homes nestled in amongst the date palms. The dirt road ran straight into the front door of an older gentleman we found lounging in his hammock with his trusty German Shephard at his side the gentle breeze blowing through the huge date palm trees. He gave a friendly wave as his wife popped her head out of her kitchen. After a very limited conversation he gave us permission to walk out on the salt flats and look at the ” si bonito, tranquil bahia”. As we walk the cows, burros, and horses roam free and begin following us. We were getting a little worried they would follow us all the way back to town but they stopped at the base of the hill and returned back to the old man.
The strong southerlies pass by and we say good bye. Our next stop will be Caleta Nopolo. Under 10 miles we pop out sail north and end up entering a tiny bay with great black cliffs lining the Northern and Southern end. There is one house close to the northern side of the bay. Doesn’t look like anyone is home. Their small ranch extends back from the beach and disappears into the canyon. A small arroyo enters the bay. We notice what looks like remnants of a foundation on the southern end. This must be the original homestead that the “cruising guide” talks about. We go explore and find a well packed path on the south end of the bay.
Following the path below the towering cliff side we come across remnants of a home which once stood looking out into the bay. Walking farther we come across a small cave with a rather large hollowed out cannoo from long ago. 
Even further down the path we find the cemetary where the original settler is buried along with a few others. The rocks crumbling away. Looking up the canyon is one of the most magnificent views we had seen. Instead of the desert hills we see the towering cliffs of the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. The green vegetation popping against the rocky back drop. We stay and watch as the light changes and dances across the canyon. A small pack of Burro say hello and wonder back to the ranch.
We return to Hiraya to prepare for the morning. We will be heading farther north. We eat dinner and enjoy the sunset view from Hiraya’s bow. We head to bed not long after dark as we will be heading out early. The bay is silent and we sleep well until around midnight we are woken up by a motor. Some one is driving around Hiraya with a flash light. Jes peers out the window trying to make sense of the drive by. The unknown panga keeps it’s distance and is now shining the flash light on the beach. They do a drive by gently rocking us from one side to the other and then they were gone. The next morning we pull anchor and head back out into the Sea. We have a 20 mile day ahead of us.