Our arrival into Santa Rosalia under dinghy power was the talk of the dock. Salty sailors stepped out of their boats to take a look at us questioning if we knew what we were doing. Kirby was there and quickly assured them that we were good and to grab a line. After we smoothed things over with the maintenance man everyone hung around to here the story of why we are under dinghy power. We spent that evening beers in hand sharing stories on the dock. Little did we know we were beginning to be known as the little green boat with out an engine.
The sunset and everyone returned to their boats. As we climbed into bed we wondered what tomorrow would bring. All of those questions began to creep in again. Not having a working engine is a huge deal. Not to mention potentially very expensive. How is this going to affect the rest of the season and the rest of our sailing time? Neither of us wanted to say the biggest worry out loud and that would be “is this all going to be over”? We drifted off to sleep to the gentle sway of Hiraya’s lines pulling us back to the dock as the swell moved in and out.
In the morning we were greeted by the Marina Security Guard who we would get to know pretty well. Marco would remind us time and time again to “no worry, be tranquil”. He had good news for us and would call the Diesel mechanic. They would be there in an hour. Great! just enough time to go check in at the office and get some breakfast. We came back 45 minutes later to find that the mechanic had been there and left. They had meant “within” the hour not “in” an hour. We felt bad and embarrassed that we had misunderstood and were not here for them and maybe they could come back another day. After all we wouldn’t have another weather window for a while and we weren’t in a hurry to leave with out having some answers.
We returned to Hiraya to clean her up and move things around. Even if the mechanics weren’t there today we would need space for when they could make it. We no sooner started moving things around when we heard Marco holler from the marina gates. Waving his hands wildly with a large grin on his face he pointed in the direction of the slip and between him and us came two mechanics. A younger man and an older gentleman. The mechanico!!! We quickly apologized for the misunderstanding earlier and brought them on board. They brushed the inconvenience out of the way and we began to explain the issues using our broken Spanish, their broken English, and google translate. For the most part we all understood the motor was broken.
Sam and the two mechanics sat at the bottom of the stairs hunched around the motor. The older gentleman who was a retired airplane mechanic gave off a serious diagnosing vibe He was the thinker. He listened to the motor as we tried to start it. He asked questions and gave commands in Spanish his younger apprentice acted as translator and the hands. Touching, twisting, plugging, unplugging, wiggling, tools, tools, tools. Soon they said they would be right back. They believed it was a fuel issue like we thought. They would run to their shop for more tools and a fuel pump that they think might work. If that didn’t work they were worried it would be the high pressure pump which would have to be ordered in. They would double check but pretty sure they didn’t have one with the right psi.
As they left we promised to be stay on the slip either on our boat or Kirby’s just around the corner of us. They chuckled and again said “no problema”. We stepped over to Kirby’s to sit in his air conditioned boat and fill him in with the news that we still don’t know what’s wrong. Soon we wandered back to Hiraya and met the mechanics on their way in with a bucket full of parts. They continued to work on the motor until well past 6 pm. With no luck getting the motor to run. They stated they would be back the next day to try some more ideas. They took some of our parts to clean them up at the shop and they went on their way.
There wasn’t anything else left to do then go to dinner with the neighboring cruisers. We headed into town. We were mesmerized by small wooden buildings and houses. We had yet seen any wood construction. After a quick history lesson we learned that the majority of the city was built by the French who had taken ownership of the failing copper mine in the late 1800s. Building the town up to house the inhabitants who mostly worked for the mine. All the architecture has a French flare to it. Including the Santa Maria Temple that was designed by non other than Gustave Eiffel. You can see the similarities the church has with the Eiffel tower when looking at it’s frame work.
The homes, schools, and shops all have a French Colonial touch in its design. There is a famous bakery that still stands today and uses the large brick ovens of long ago. Sending the scent of fine breads, pastries, and sweets through the air. Walking along the narrow streets and walkways strings of twinkle lights mark outside dinning areas lines with trees and plants. Fat and happy dogs run the streets looking for the next friendly hand to give them a snack. Friendly people pop in and out of their homes right onto the narrow sidewalks that line the streets. We enjoy getting to know some of the cruisers who we will end up spending the summer with.
The next morning our mechanics arrive with another bucket of spare parts. This time they work quietly and it is hot. I have cold water and coca cola at the ready. They take a coca cola willingly and down them in one gulp. I motion there is more in the fridge. They smile and return to their work. The older gentle man guiding the younger. I try and stay out of the way while Sam watches, helps, and learns. After all day and a few more parts the old gentleman said to fire it up. Lets see. Miraculously the motor roars to life. It sounds rough but it is running. After a few more adjustments we go for a run with the mechanics. Loose the lines and we motor out of the marina. We keep the dinghy side tide just encase.
As we motor out we are cautiously optimistic. Our excitement is slowly growing. But I can’t get over the fact it just sounds so loud. I feel the older gentleman thought the same. “It’s running but something is still wrong.” Just then the motor dies. Try as they may it just doesn’t come back to life. After what felt like for ever we tuck our tails between our legs and we dinghy the boat back into the marina and the safety of the docks. The mechanics work a little bit longer. It is now late into the evening. They are at a point they can no longer help. They need parts. If we can get the parts they can help fix. But this will take weeks if not months to get the correct parts here. We pay them for their time and they leave.
What do we do know? We silently clean up the mess and head for the showers. It is early August. We can not stay in Santa Rosalia for the hurricane season. We quickly check with the three ports of Penasco, San Carlos and Guaymas. The only three we knew of that would give some protection for the hurricane season. We could go clear up North 300 miles to Penaso and cross the boarder for parts then do the work our selves. Guaymos and San Carlos we would have to cross the Sea 70 miles but there is skilled mechanics and shops there. They were all fairly equal on the price but they all required to haul the boat out. We have a at least another year before any scheduled maintenance that requires a haul out would need to be done. If we haul out now we will still need to do it again in a year. That is extra unnecessary stress on the boat. Not to mention it is just now getting hot. We have finally found heat.
After a long debate we decide that we can sail the rest of the summer. It is a sail boat after all. We will pick our windows and quickly get to the Bay of Los Angeles area. There we will be with the rest of the summer fleet that could assist us if needed. We would be out of hurricane danger or at least close to protection. And we wont miss out on the heat of the summer. We will fix the engine in the winter when we have our scheduled visa run home.
We enjoy a few more days in Santa Rosalia talking with more experienced cruisers laying out our plan and re-provisioning Hiraya. Everyone is excited and impressed that we are going for it engineless. As each boat is choosing their windows we choose ours and soon the fleet all leaves within days of each other. We leave with Kirby on Lodos as he has offered to be our buddy boat. After all if we needed a tow by Lodos would be able to handle it with out any issue.
We pick our window. It is soon. We look forward to visiting Santa Rosalia on our way back South but for now we must move North.