Solitude and Slowing down

When the wind filled in we decided to make smaller hops up to the Bahia de Los Angeles area. We were unsure at how fast we could travel and just thought it would be safer. Kirby had left the day before and motored all the way to BOLA. He needed provisions and we didn’t. So we chose to make smaller hops. First one being Bahia Animas and then Quemada.

Bahia Animas was a stop mostly as we needed to tuck in from wind. We had been realizing we were waiting a little to long for the wind to be right that we were often times left to bob around moving at 1 – 2 knots and then resorting to the dinghy motor. So we left a day earlier then we would have normally and ran into some pretty big waves and wind toward the end of our sail. We hit the entrance to Bahia Animas in 30 knot winds, reefed ( taking the sails in as much as we could leaving only a small portion out to still move the boat forward) and trying hard to angle just right as to not miss the anchorage and not taking the waves to the beam, or side of the boat. The boat now is moving along as fast as she is made to go at 6.5 to 7 knots and we are rounding the corner in. Off in the distance I see blows. Thinking only for a moment it was a whale when the extremely tall dorsal fins come into focus. Then we see the white. We are seeing ORCA!!!! There were 3 maybe 4 Orca at the far entrance of the bay. A quarter mile from us. We were stunned and then a tad worried when they seemed to be heading our way. 

We were slip sliding into the anchorage. The waves feeling like they were picking us up here and setting us down over there. We were too busy keeping and eye on the Orca to realize the seas were calming. Soon we were down to 3 knots. We were standing in the cockpit watching as the Orca continue on their way not even bothering with looking in our direction as the boat slowed and steadied more. As we turn around we are met with a quiet glass like anchorage we anchor and relax. 

The next day we take a hike spotting a coyote on the beach. He watched us with interest then scurried up the hill. The beach was very rocky with dark sand. We didn’t plan to stay long. Witch was good as the next day we had some bees show up. They must have found some fresh water on the boat because they brought their friends the next day causing us to raise anchor and leave. 

Our next stop was only about 10 miles away. Another good size bay called Quemada. Translating from spanish quemada means burned. And looking at the landscape it was quick to see why it held that name. The hills were a mix of red and black rock giving it the look as if it had been burned. There was a small beach with light sand on the southern end of the bay. We enjoyed walking south across the sand to the Pescador that has pristine soft white sand. There stands an abandoned resort. Looking out from the resort we can see where we had anchored the day before in Bahia Animas. The resort consisted of several palapas. The one in the center was complete at one time. Cruisers are known to gather here each year. They clean it up and have bon fires and play games. Some have left shells painted with their boat names. The building is decorated in a bright mural and wicker furniture and has a view suited for covers of magazines. The other buildings are all in different stages of development and left to the elements. 

 

Turning back from Pescador we head towards Quemada and our waiting Hiraya. Littered along the sand are old pieces of equipment left to rust in the hot desert sun. We take our time wandering back. We will spend a few days here and enjoy the solitude we are finding. There isn’t one boat with in eye site. We can hear the passing Pangas but they don’t come close enough to even wave to. It is quiet and peaceful. 

Quemada is known for it’s rock pillars and is noted as an interesting dive spot. We snorkel around the rocks and find large boulders and crevasse. The water is ok temperature but the water is a little green. Sam tries his hand at spear fishing again and it is the first time he get one! He was so excited even though it was a smaller fish. It is a Perch of some sort and edible. After we were done celebrating we realize that we are still bobbing around in the water with a fish on a spear. We probably should head to the dinghy. Just as we are coming around the last corner and I can see the dingy something catches my eye and I look to the left to see two beady gold eyes on a black body. After I finish my panic I realize it is a large manta ray draped over a rock. It was a beautiful site even though I’m sure I peed my self. 

Getting back to Hiraya in one piece we clean us and the fish up. Have dinner and relax into the evening. We stay a few days getting use to the solitude we found here. After all this time we have no where to be and it is a strange feeling. One we are not sure we are ready for. We stay until we are pretty much out of everything fresh in regards to food and we make a plan to leave and join our friends in the Bay of La.

The next morning we prepare to sail off our anchor. Positive it will go just fine and determined to do it we set the sails and raise the anchor. We will have to tack a few times to get out of the bay but that shouldn’t be a problem. Its pretty wide and deep. We raise the main and anchor then unfurl the head sail. We begin to gain speed heading North first. When we get as close to the shore as we dare we tack and head south. I notice we haven’t quite made a great angle and should have done better. We are practically following our last track. Again we get as close to shore as we dare and tack again. This time we are even worse. We then both dumb realize neither of us checked the tides. Yep, sure enough the tide is coming in. This means all the water is moving back up the sea pushing us into the bay. There isn’t enough wind to increase our speed to compensate for that so we started the dinghy. Rookie mistake! An hour later we were out of the bay and it was like something let go of the boat. We broke through the current and was able to tack and head North to BOLA.

We arrived into BOLA Later that afternoon and anchored under sail. Lodos, Alegria, Dogfish, and Perspective dinghied over to say hi as they were heading into shore for dinner. We finished cleaning up our sailing mess and then jumped in the dinghy to go talk to the neighbor boat we anchored next to. Introduced our selves and let them know

we anchored under sail and if we were too close. Karl and Julie on SV Phoenix Rising met us with smiling faces. We quickly knew we wanted to be friends with them. They have been cool places like the South Pacific and we want all the juicy details. Also they were so carefree and fun in those first couple moments of talking with them. 

We return back to Hiraya to enjoy the evening. We will be going into shore tomorrow to check out the town and find some food and meet new people. So I guess we are finally here. We are in the BOLA area for the summer. We made it. We didn’t die with out our engine. It was kind of fun learning how to sail better and in more ways than one.

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