We leave San Marcial and head to Agua Verde. We are happy knowing we will get to see our friends Andy and Kathryn on Anna Maria again. We haven’t seen them since La Paz so it will be a nice reunion. The sail over was a short and easy seven miles. We are getting spoiled with these short hops.
After maneuvering around the reef and out into the Sea we are welcomed by the soft breeze and warm sunshine in the air. Sails up we move through the water and when the wind dies we turn on the motor. Head on in to anchor. More boats!! Since we had left San Evaristo we hadn’t been in a crowded anchorage. This was going to test our abilities. Not only that but near Anna Maria is a massive ship. Sam encourages me to move in. I can’t even begin to guess how big this boat is let alone it’s swinging room. I am nervous.
We get anchored and I remain nervous the rest of the day. Getting off the boat does help put the distance into perspective but I am still uncomfortable. That uneasiness goes away with time and some encouragement from Andy and Kathryn. We visit with Andy and Kathryn and make dinner plans on shore at the tiny restaurant. We head in while I look over my shoulder making sure the big boat and Hiraya are not trying to meet with out us knowing. I do notice that there is a much larger distance between us than I had initially thought.
The brilliant white shore greats us as we make our way through the green water. The sand is soft and warm under our feet. Such a contrast from the red rock of Gatos and the pebbly beaches of San Marcial. San Marcial is only 7 miles away. How can the beach be so dramatically different? It is a wonderful difference and as I walk up the beach to the palm tree shaded palapa of the Restaurant I feel as if I’ve landed in some tropical oasis. I need to get to the tropics I obviously have a spiritual pull towards them. We enjoy tasty fish tacos and cold cervesas. The owner chats with us and gives us a warm smiles as she sends her family to work making the food. The interaction is pleasant and laid back. We could relax there all day. And we did mostly.
After more time past we decided to walk around town to burn off some of the calories we just indulged in. The town is dusty yet picked up. Not much trash blowing around. Small little flower gardens dot the light soft sand pathways. The homes are brightly painted. We follow the path past the church and come to the first one room tienda. It is decently stocked with snacks and basics. There is one refrigerator that holds the famous goat cheese. Fresh veggies of onion, potato, tomato, limes, peppers, and cabbage or arranged in wooden boxes on the shelf. The food truck must have been here recently for so many options to be available.
We continue our walk through town pass the little church and more homes. Lots of friendly waves and bueno dias float through the air. We continue walking and catching up on the last few months. We haven’t noticed we’ve reached the end of town. A family is sitting in the shade of their home and call out. ” Goats? You wan goats?” I guess the gringos that make it down this far are looking for the goats that produce the famous Agua Verde Goat Cheese. “Si” we say. Why not. Then the next ten minutes are spent trying to understand directions and clarify questions until we can’t speak English and they can’t speak Spanish any more. Then a lot of laughing and shouts about Amigos. Then we are off.
Basically we are to turn left at the trail and follow the arroyo until we go right. Which right we do not know. We start seeing free roaming chickens and then a burro. We must be getting close to the farm. When we start seeing buildings and lean-tos we take a right. Through our chatter we don’t realize we are walking behind the farm, pass the farmer in his outside shower singing and showering away. We soon come to the side of the stone pathway. To the left is the arroyo we should have been walking down and to the right the entrance to the farm. Good thing they aren’t mad we have been carelessly walking through their property.
We pass the pens of goats. Chickens run around pecking at the dirt sending puffs of dust into the air. A large pig lays in the shade of a palm tree. Chickens clucking and a few sounds from the goats and pig and a bellow from a burro makes you feel like your in a farm on the mainland. As we walk down the path we step through the canopy of palm trees and find our selves standing on the white beach looking out at the bright green waters of Agua Verde. We had walked from the North end all the way to the South end. We take the beach back as the pangas are beginning to return from their day of fishing. There is another small restaurant on this end that we will have to try.
The next day Andy and Kathryn head off on more adventures and we remain in Agua Verde. There is a trail on the south end that takes you over the mountain through a palm tree lined oasis to another beach that will lead you to some petroglyphs. We pack some water and grab our cameras and head off. It is hot but the movement feels so good. We walk up the hill taking a look down at Agua Verde and the sea. Then head back down the hill toward the cemetery and into the palm tree oasis. We then follow the trail out to the beach and continue up the beach to the next hill. There are three sticks on the beach that marks the spot of the trail to take left up into the hill. We follow this trail up to a saddle where there are some rocks stacked and turn onto the path that cuts back across the hill. Crumbly rock constantly move under our feet but we make it to the top with out too much trouble.
Inside the cave we find red and white hands. Just like the wall of hands in Utah. Hand prints meaning something. We sit in the quiet cool shade off the cave and look out at the Sea below us. What a beautiful sight. Wonder how much the view has changed since the indigenous people lived here. Why they would climb all the way up here to record their message.
We take the long way back and hike through the desert flats behind the village. There wasn’t much to see but vast nothingness covered in dust and cacti. Trails and roads leading to who knows where with remnants of flash floods making the road appear to have just stopped then pick up again somewhere else. Soon we wound back around to the village and returned back to Hiraya. Tired and thirsty we discuss our next stop. We have about 15 miles to our next anchorage but if we leave early enough we could stop and check out the hot springs of San Cosme. My feet say that sounds nice. Let’s go there